• Breeding Expenses (costs & investments in parents, stud fees – usually $250 & up, health checks/testing for genetic diseases in parents),
• Kennel expenses (cost of housing dogs, vet expenses, feeding expenses, showing expenses of parents & other dogs, dog equipment / supplies), P
• Puppy expenses (whelping costs, raising a litter, vet expenses, shots, worming, health checks, eye checks, registration fees), etc.

• Most breeders charge $300 - $400 and up for a companion quality puppy. Show quality usually starts @ $500 and up.

• Testing is available for these genetic diseases. Certifications/test result papers from canine medical labs and health organizations (OFA) are given to breeders who do testing.
• Reputable Breeders will do testing for genetic defects in the parents

• Hip / OFA x-rays, eye checks by licensed opthamologists or specially trained vets, blood workups for thyroid, blood workups or DNA tests for Von Willebrand as well a some testing in the puppies – eye checks.
• Breeders must be diligent in striving to breed the healthiest & happiest dog’s possible. If breeders do not do the testing, ask "Why Not?"
• Genetic diseases in the Sheltie will not go away & be eliminated until all breeders test their breeding stock and puppies.
• Ask the breeder to show proof of testing done and have the test results explained. Health Guarantees are pointless guaranteeing against genetic diseases unless the breeder tests all of their breeding stock in the first place.
• Health Guarantees vary with many breeders. All guarantees should allow the buyer enough time (at least 48 – 72 hours) to have their own vet go over the dog for any health problems.
• Some breeders guarantee their stock for that amount of time; some breeders guarantee their stock for the dog’s lifetime against hereditary diseases.
• Be certain to closely read any health guarantees on return policies. If you are unclear on a point, ask first before you take that puppy home.
• Many breeders have a return policy but will not return the purchase price, only offer a replacement.
• Some breeders may return a purchase price on a returned healthy pup only when and if they can resell it. Whatever the breeder gives, before a puppy is sold, a vet should have health checked the litter at least once.

• Testing for genetic problems are very expensive, that is one reason a puppy from can be knowledgeable breeder may cost more than a "backyard breeder" or pet shop.
• Remember that breeder’s reputation is on the line everytime a puppy is sold into a new home.
• Just as a puppy buyer does not want to purchase a potentially sick or defective puppy, a reputable breeder doesn’t want the heartbreak of selling a sick or defective puppy into a loving home.

• Remember the old adage, buyer beware! Check out the credentials of the seller. Ask questionsl
• Do they maintain a kennel?
• Is it a hobby or a business?
• Do they show dogs in AKC events (Dog Shows, Obedience Trials, Herding Trials, Agility Events)?
• Do they test for genetic problems?
• Do they belong to any Dog Clubs?
• Do they guarantee health, temperament, & quality?
• What do they require of buyers (fenced in yard? Neutering/Spaying agreements? ALC Limited Registration – Non breeding registration papers? Etc)?
• A reputable breeder deeply cares where his babies go and how they are loved and cared for.
• Beware of "backyard breeders" and "puppy mills." These people are either not aware of breed related problems, or do not care. Remember the puppy you buy, should expect a life span of at least 10 years or more.

• Arrange an appointment to visit their home, kennel and/or dogs. Never go unannounced as dog people are always busy and they are no different from you.
• Ask to see their dogs, especially the sire and damn of the litter.
• Sometimes, it is not always possible to view the sire as many breeders use top producing /winning studs that may be located somewhere across the country. Most breeders will have pictures of the studs they have shipped their females to.
• Examine the dam, the puppies and the other dogs to give you an idea of the temperament and appearance of the dogs.
• Stay away form overly nervous, fearful or aggressive Shelties. Shelties, according the AKC Breed Standard, may be reserved and wary of strangers but not fearful or aggressive. Temperament problems are highly hereditary in Shelties.
• To be properly socialized Sheltie babies should be raised as newborns in close proximity to activity and people, never stuck away in a separate kennel or building away from people. Shelties bond closely with people and need social interaction from day one.
• Ask to see the puppy’s AKC pedigree, papers and health records. The names in many pedigrees many not be familiar to you, but AKC and other registry titles in a pedigree may signify that the breeder cares enough to breed quality dogs. The more titled dogs in the first three generations, the better. However to breed to a champion or even if both parents are champions, does not guarantee the quality of the puppy or whole litter. Remember that AKC papers are not "automatic" indicator of quality.
• The breeder must know what genetic background they are working with and hopefully, with luck and hard work, the outcome will be a healthy happy breed worthy specimen.

• Before that trip to the breeders home write down all the questions, you will want to ask the breeder.
• Many times, when buyer spots a warm, soft, cuddly, puppy from a litter, all reason leaves the head and the heart rules.
• Don’t be driving home wondering if you did the right thing in buying that puppy.
• GET EVERYTHING IN WRITING, FOR YOUR SAKE AS WELL AS THE BREEDER’S/
• Sales contracts should include all the information possible (price, return policy, health guarantees, shout and worming records, feeding instructions, etc.)
• Both the buyer and seller should be in agreement on everything.

• They ask why their Sheltie needs an eye check before she’s bred, by a board-certified ophthalmologist no less; when she can see perfectly well. They don’t understand that only a specialist can determine whether a dog that can "see perfectly well" has a disease that will eventually rob it of its vision.

• The same people ask why we have a male’s hips x-rayed before he is sued at stud, when he runs and plays perfectly well. They don’t understand that hip Dysplasia can’t always be detected by watching a dog move.

• Then they ask, A blood test for Von Willebrand disease? Come on, get serious.

• And a thyroid check? Where does it end? Are you just going to keep checking until you find something wrong?

Sires and dams that appear normal but carry the gene for the defect can pass on some of the diseases we test for.

• Until we can identify unaffected carriers, all we can do is avoid using Shelties we know are affected, as well as those that may be affected because of the presence of genetic defects in their parents, offspring and littermates.

• Our goal is to produce healthy dogs and avoid heartache for us and for the people who buy our puppies.

Ten years and four generations down the road, when a problem arises with one of the diseases we are monitoring, breeders will check back in their pedigrees to see where it might have originated. They will not look for someone to blame.

• They will try to learn how to avoid having a life-threatening defect appear in their litters.

• If breeders of today have been conscientious and obtained all the veterinary clearances possible, owners of tomorrow will know where it did not come from, which may be extremely helpful.

It is especially behooves breeders who are standing dogs at public stud to be sure there are not problems.

• A popular dog carrying a crippling or fatal defect can affect a sizeable percentage of the next generation.

The American Shetland Sheepdog Association Guidelines for Ethical Behavior suggests strongly that we not breed a Sheltie until its health clearances are completed.

• We can’t legislate morality, but the ethical guidelines are there for us, in black and white.
• If a breeder really loves the breed, they know why health checks are necessary. Let their conscience be your guide

These diseases should be tested for in both parents before breeding:

This condition should be tested in each puppy before sale

• Sheltie Eye Syndrome

The standard for shelties states that they should measure between 13" and 16" at the shoulder.

• Most fall into the upper half of this range. Shelties were once crossed with the larger collie to improve the breed and large shelties will still be found today as a result.
• It is not unknown for a sheltie to approach a small collie in size. Small shelties are more rare, but will show up in a litter as well.

The temperament of the sheltie is what has endeared his to so many owners.

• They are usually loyal and affectionate with their owners. Shelties are known to be easy to train, and this is often due to their desire and willingness to please. Shelties almost seem to train themselves at times.
• They are ever willing to do your every wish and ecstatic at the praise they receive.
• Shelties are relatively sensitive and do not need a hard hand when training. They are not soft, though, and will stand up to criticism.
• A sheltie with the classic temperament is a bit standoffish with strangers, but not unfriendly. There is a much wider range in temperament in modern shelties than there used to be and personalities will range from quiet, stay at home dogs, to active extroverts.
• Unfortunately, due to their popularity, more shelties are being bred in puppy mills and by inexperienced ,unknowledgeable breeders. These dogs often have very poor temperaments, with characteristics such as fear biting, excessive shyness, nervousness, or extreme hyperness.
• Do your sheltie a favor and have him or her altered.

This is a good question to ask yourself if you are interested in getting a sheltie. No breed is right for everyone, and all breeds have strong and weak points.

• First, the sheltie is a long coated breed. While his coat does require less care than some, your should expect to spend a minimum of 1 – 2 times a week brushing him which may take ½ hour to an hour depending on how full a coat he has.
• During shedding seasons, you may want to brush him every day to keep the hair level on the carpets down.

• Second, the sheltie is a barker. The amount of barking varies with the individual dog and often with the number of dogs.
• Barking is often learned from other dogs and a house with a number of shelties is invariably a noisy one.
• If your are persistent though, you can often teach your dog to be quiet once they have done their job and sounded the alarm.
• And if all else fails, you can get your dog de-barked.

Talk to just about any sheltie breeder and they will tell you to get this book. An award-winning breed book, it contains tons of pictures, info on sheltie characteristics, genetics, breeding, grooming, health care, training and much more.

• To purchase this book, contact Alpine Publications @303/667-2017 or 1/800/777-7257. This book can also be purchased from Care a Lot @ 1/800/343-7680.
• Alpine Publications also publishes a good book on grooming the sheltie call The Illustrated Guide to Sheltie Grooming

About 1/3 of a sheltie’s ear should tip forward. Many shelties have prick ears, that is, ears that stand straight up. Once a dog is 6 or 7 months old, there is not much you can do to correct this.

• If your sheltie is still a puppy, you can help train the ears to tip correctly. The book Sheltie Talk (discussed above) has a whole chapter on training ears to tip correctly.
• One thought is to weight them with antiphlogistine. This is an item, which usually has to be special ordered from a pharmacy. (it’s used as a poultice in people) but is not very expensive.
• You just take a little of it and stick it to the ear, until you get the right amount of tip, then powder it, so the part that faces out doesn’t stick anymore.
• The color is almost unnoticeable on most shelties and the dogs don’t seem to be bothered by it much.

There are many references out there that cover color inheritance in great detail. Shelties have two basic colors: sable and black. All colors seen in shelties are variations on these two colors.

• Most shelties have some white on them; sables in particular often have a large white collar as well as white feet and a white tip on the tail. The sable and white is sometimes referred to different names according to the amount of black color in the coat, or the shade of it. Thus you will hear terms like "mahogany sable" and "red sable". They are genetically sables though.
• The blacks come in black, tan and white, called a tri color, or a black and white, called a bicolor.
• Another variation on black is a blue merle, in which the lack color is diluted out unevenly across the dog, causing the coat to have a Bluish-Grey color. Blues also have the white and tan (called a blue merle) or just white (bi blue).

Finally you should expect to spend some time exercising your sheltie. This is a working breed and while they will adjust to living in apartments, etc., better than larger breeds, they do need to spend time running off that excess sheltie energy every day. This may mean taking a walk, or maybe just throwing a tennis ball in the house. Consider doing obedience, agility or other dog sports with your sheltie. A sheltie enjoys nothing more than getting to work or spend time with you. You will have a much closer relationship with your dog.

People want to breed dogs for a lot of reason. Some of the more common ones among inexperienced people:

• "My dog is so special, I want another one just like him";
• I want my kids/family/me to experience "the miracle of birth"; I want to make some money selling the puppies;
• S/he has this long, fancy pedigree so s/he must be a champion-quality dog and "should" be bred.

First, all shelties are special! There are lots of other people already breeding dogs that are every bit as special as yours. Your parents are probably very different form you. Dogs are individuals too and breeding a dog is not likely to produce a bunch of little clones of your "special dog." As far a s the miracle of birth, buy a guppy! They are much cheaper, cleaner and if something serious goes wrong, the emotional distress is not as server.

Second, there are better ways of experiencing nature at work than bringing more dogs into the world. Far too many are experiencing the "tragedy of death" in shelters everyday. Breeding is a dirty, messy job at times, especially as the puppies get older. Many people get tired of these little "bundles of joy" that make constant noise, pee and poop all over the place, etc. and try to get rid of them as soon as possible. Temperament problems are often the result.

Third, we have the money-desiring people. Any reputable breeder will tell you that you cannot make money, breeding dogs if you are doing it right. Skimp on the vet care of the mother and puppies, feed low-quality food, skip the genetic screening, save on stud fees by breeding to a local dog and maybe then you will make a little money. This is assuming the puppies don’t have to be put down for some disease or health problem. Breeding dogs is a BIG responsibility and you need to ask yourself it you are willing to put in the time and money to do it right and especially in the event that something goes wrong.

Fourth, as far as a pedigree, all that means is that the parent of your dog and their parent’s etc. were shelties. No more, no less. Even a dog from a champion bred to a champion can have all kinds of faults that mean s/he should not be bred. Think twice before you breed your dog. There is no shortage of shelties out there; Unless you truly feel you are improving the breed, let other people to the breeding and have your dog spayed or neutered.

DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT get a sheltie (or any dog for that matter) from a pet store.

An experienced breeder who checks their stock for genetic disorders, and gives the puppies’ all the necessary medical attention and socialization they need should breed shelties in a clean home.

Shelties being bred should screened for eye problems, hip dysphasia, and thyroid function. Beware of breeders that tell you things like, "Oh that doesn’t run in my dogs" or "That test isn’t accurate." That is a good sign that they have some problem in their dogs.

Many breeders test for VWD (a bleeding disorder) as well, but there have been a lot of problems with getting good test results, and many breeders no longer test for VWD. Be sure to ask about the incidence of it in the lines you are looking at.

There are a few ways to locate a breeder.

Hopefully, this information will provide Sheltie lovers assistance in choosing the right puppy.

If you wish to obtain a COSSA Service Directory via Internet, please send a written request indicating you have read and understand the above information regarding purchasing a Sheltie to:

If you do not have email, send a written request indicating you have read and understand the above information regarding purchasing a Sheltie and self addressed stamped envelope to:

COSSA Service Directory

c/o Pet Shelties

5420 Blackhawk Forest Dr.

Westerville, OH 43082

You are also welcome to be a guest at a COSSA meeting and pick up an information packet.